Shaylor
| Hi all, This is an invitation to ask any and all questions regarding American Clay to be answered by the Horses (explitive)… I mean mouth. I hope to hear from all of you and begin a great discussion. Shaylor |
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cknsherwin said,
September 26, 2006 @ 3:05 am
I see some photos that do not display the colors in the photo gallery. Wondering if I can find out thos e colors? Thanks–Kelly
artimbo said,
October 1, 2006 @ 6:42 am
Kelly,
Thanks for your question! Some of the colors in the Photo Gallery are custom mixed. In addition to the 33 Destination Colors and 7 Natural Depths of Color hues, we can produce a wide array of custom colors.
Anything you would add, Shaylor?
Best,
Andy
American Clay Webmaster
shaylor said,
October 9, 2006 @ 8:32 pm
Whoa, am I slow at getting back to everyone. Anyway, Many of the colors are custom. Not only that many of them appear very different from real life. Camera flashes, computer screens etc… all play on how something looks. You can contact us anytime if you have a question about color. We know what those colors are in real life, and have even made custom colors to match what they look like on a computer screen. Best thing to do is to call us and find out the answers to our questions.
lola said,
October 19, 2006 @ 7:31 am
hi,
i am completely in love with your plaster. however, i am daunted by the cost and time requirements to put it on my walls.
i’ve seen several ‘clay paints’ and they seem like a good middle ground for time-constrained people like me who can’t afford to hire someone else to plaster their walls for them.
i was wondering if you guys had tried making your plaster into a paint of sorts? undoubtedly it wouldn’t be as thick, but would be far quicker/easier to apply. i would think that by adding extra water such that the plaster was super liquid pudding, i’d be able to apply it with a roller instead of a trowel.
any thoughts/suggestions on this?
thanks,
lola
shaylor said,
October 19, 2006 @ 5:49 pm
lola,
People have mixed the plaster up with enough water that it can be applied with a roller. Because the product needs to be compressed you would need to pass over the second coat spraying it with water (not enough that it is dripping down the wall), and pass over it with a trowel. The same could actually be said for clay paints. If one applied them with a roller, then wetted them and troweled over them, it would be a harder more durable surface.
The down side to this is that the mechanical compression that takes place when you apply it with a trowel is missing. The bond will not be as strong if you apply it with a roller. The product is very forgiving, so you can always come back to it to make it more perfect.
Hope this helps,
Shaylor
lola said,
October 20, 2006 @ 12:55 am
thank you!
one other question for you - the natural depths colors are listed as ’special order’ do they fall under the custom color charge? or are they the same price as the others? also - i’m assuming that most companies who carry your product don’t carry the natural depth colors. if so, how long would it take to receive them via mail?
thanks again,
lola
shaylor said,
October 30, 2006 @ 9:03 pm
Sorry for being so slow,
The natural depths are available at our dealers and distributors now. They are NOT subject to our custom color charge. It’s kinda the whole idea, great deep colors available to everyone at a good price. In fact they came from custom colors.
Thanks
Shaylor
jpopenoe said,
April 17, 2007 @ 3:38 am
Hi Shaylor,
After logging countless hours applying Loma and the Porcelina (sulpher spring), I attempted to burnish it, and it didn’t seem to turn out well. I tested it behind the fridge, and am now creating a test panel to try things on. I’m going to use the penetrating sealer, presumably after doing something else. What about the black soap? I didn’t have a plastic trowel, they don’t have ones that are completly flat on the bottom in the hardware stores. I tried using shammy cloth wrapped in a sanding block, and it appeared to remove some of the pigment. What are our options. I worked so hard on the walls, and they look beautiful, but need to be finished.
Thanks,
Jon
jpopenoe2@yahoo.com
Db Drywall Finishing said,
May 5, 2007 @ 8:39 pm
Shaylor, were doing a windmill looking house, 1 room up stairs most is covered in old non sealed wood we are going to primer the wood then apply the clay, hope this works, we are using kilz primer. also I need to send some pictures of our trailer. Dave & Landon- Livingston Montana
shaylor said,
May 26, 2007 @ 2:48 am
jpopenoe,
Sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner, The “burnishing” you talk about is an effect that is created by highly compressing the clay plaster. The effect you may be getting could be from a number of reasons. The plaster could be too wet. If it is too wet you simply move the clay around and don’t actually compress it into itself. If it is too dry, you will know as you will simply scrape the plaster. The best way to get this look is to wet about a two by two area. Pass your trowel over it to spread any standing water to an area of dry plaster. Then wait five to thirty seconds depending on the humidity etc… Then revisit your area with your trowel. If the trowel is “sticky” or you see a “cream” moving on the surface of the clay it is too wet, wait some more and go back. Once you nail down the timing the system goes fast. As to the plastic trowel that is just so you don’t burn the plaster. When you work the plaster with steel trowels, the friction between the aggregate and the steel heats up the steal and leaves black carbon marks in the wall. The best way to apply the black soap is to dilute it one part water to two parts soap and mix it in a blender. Then put your mix in a sport bottle (one with a pop top like a bicycling bottle), then squeeze a bead of it on the edge of your trowel and apply laying on heavy coats and troweling in small sections until they are saturated with soap. The soap is a great effect but it’s a PITA!
Hope this helps
Shaylor
shaylor said,
May 26, 2007 @ 2:53 am
Dave and Landon,
Again Sorry, I will try to pay more attention to this part of the blog. Going over wood technically voids the warranty. That being said many people have successfully gone over wood. You need to do anything you can to make sure the wood doesn’t move (you can use mesh tape and joint compound sometimes). Then you need to paint prime it with an isolating primer (like Kilz). Then use the bonding agent of your choice (rolling on sanded primer is always easiest and safest when you are going against company recommendations. I suspect you will have a successful application. I need to get you guys your test scores and certificates.
Shaylor
Screens Are Very Flat said,
February 17, 2008 @ 12:31 pm
Plasma Flat Screen TV Options And Advice…
There are just too many reasons to get a plasma flat screen TV but I will try my best to provide as many as I can. What better way to talk myself into making a purchase like this than to explain the benefits of owning this piece of equipment? A plasma …